Paris opens tomorrow: two debuts, the houses coming home, and the week's real tests in their second seasons

Spring/Summer 2027 runs from September 28 to October 6. Courrèges and Carven have new designers, Valentino and Margiela are back on the calendar, and Blazy, Tron and Lantink have to show that their first collections were not a one-off.

By Célia Megias·September 27, 2026·2 min read

Paris Fashion Week opens tomorrow, September 28, and runs to October 6 with 68 shows and 33 presentations. We set out the calendar when it was published in July, and the showroom side of the week in August. What follows is what has changed since, and what to watch.

Two debuts

Courrèges: Drew Henry's first collection as artistic director, Wednesday, September 30, at 10:30.
Carven: Kai Nesselrath's first show as design director, Thursday, October 1, at 12:30.

Neither is a house on the scale of last season's Chanel or Dior debuts. That is why they matter. They are the two places where Paris will show whether it can still reset a mid-size house with a new name, rather than only the giants.

The second seasons

The bigger tests are the designers who debuted in the last year:

Matthieu Blazy shows his second spring ready-to-wear for Chanel on Monday, October 5, at 20:00, a year after his first.
Antonin Tron shows his second collection for Balmain on September 30.
Duran Lantink shows his first ready-to-wear for Jean Paul Gaultier on Sunday, October 4.

Dior shows on Tuesday, September 29, at 14:30, Saint Laurent the same evening at 21:00, Balenciaga on October 1, and Louis Vuitton closes the season on October 6.

Who is back, and who is missing

Valentino returns after showing its fall 2026 collection in Rome, and Maison Margiela after showing in Shanghai. Sacai, Ester Manas, Christopher Esber and Casablanca are also back. Maxhosa, founded by Laduma Ngxokolo in 2010, is on the calendar for the first time, on opening day.

Missing: McQueen, which has just gone back to London, and Rabanne, where Olivier Rousteing's first show is set for March. Off-White is also off the calendar.

What we will be looking at

Paris does not usually lose houses to London, and a McQueen-sized gap is noticed. Beyond the calendar, the question for the next nine days is the same one the week asked a year ago, in the other direction: last season was about who arrived, and this one is about who stayed interesting.

Dates, times, debuts and returns as reported by Daily Front Row (Charles Manning) and Fashionista, with show counts per the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode. Schedules are provisional and may change.

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