Tuesday, September 29, 2026 / Spring/Summer 2027 season
The collections, the houses, and the business behind them
Jonathan Anderson will show Cruise 2028 in Shanghai on May 14, 2027, seventeen years after the house last staged a major show there. Dior is the first big French house to say where its next cruise goes, and it said so the week before its Paris show.
In this issue
Sep 22 – 28
Milan
Milan Fashion Week, Spring/Summer 2027
We are covering it
Oct 2026
Barcelona
Sep 28 – Oct 6
Paris
Paris Fashion Week, Spring/Summer 2027
We are covering it
RunwayHenry Zankov opened the Spring 2027 week on the High Line with a collection that started from colour and let print follow. It was also the first New York season run under the CFDA's ban on real fur.
While 101 houses fill the Spring/Summer 2027 runway calendar, the Fédération runs Sphere at the Palais de Tokyo from September 30 to October 6. It is the least photographed part of Paris Fashion Week and the part that decides who is still here in three seasons.
Estimates put the active haute couture clientele at roughly 4,000 to 5,000 people worldwide, down from around 20,000 after the New Look. Pieces run from €30,000 to well past €500,000 and the tier still rarely pays for itself, which is the whole point of it.
Gucci refurbishes and resells its own vintage, Balenciaga, Valentino and Burberry work through partners, and Rolex guarantees a watch it did not sell you. Only one of those is a claim of authority over the resale market rather than a slice of it.
The 37th edition of 080 left Sant Pau for Port Vell in April with 26 brands. The 38th is due in October, applications are open and the dates are not out, which tells you what kind of fashion week this is.
The Digital Product Passport must stay readable through resale and end-of-life. That is a line in an environmental regulation and it is also, accidentally, an attack on the one thing the resale platforms own.
Spring/Summer 2027 runs September 22 to 28 with 60 shows, 54 of them in person. Camera Moda opens the week with a new Fashion Hub at Palazzo Morando and closes it with Giorgio Armani, and the state is in the credits of both.
The Chambre Syndicale runs three tiers: haute couture members, correspondents, and guests. Guests may call their work couture and are barred from calling it haute couture, and they wait two years before the appellation is even on the table.
The four-city calendar, the schedules, and the access hierarchy that decides who sees a collection first.
All of Fashion Weeks
Fashion WeeksThe Spring/Summer 2027 schedule runs September 10 to 15 with around 70 shows and presentations. It opens with Henry Zankov's debut at Diane von Furstenberg and closes with Thom Browne, and in between it does something Paris and Milan structurally cannot.
The Spring/Summer 2027 schedule runs September 28 to October 6, with debuts from Drew Henry at Courrèges and Kai Nesselrath at Carven, Valentino and Margiela back, and McQueen gone to London. The season the reset has to start paying for itself.
RunwayDemna's first Gucci built each look as a character in the house's family tree, re-proportioned the Bamboo 1947 and put the Horsebit loafer with sheer hosiery. The reviews were warm. The forums were not.
His debut ready-to-wear was described as the first real break at the house in more than four decades. Whether the Chanel customer wants a break is the question the ovation could not answer.
Creative directors, appointments, and the strategy behind who gets handed a heritage house.
All of Houses
HousesJonathan Anderson took all of Dior in 2025 and by July 2026 LVMH was attributing part of its first fashion growth in seven quarters to his effect. What it takes to move an €18 billion division, and what the credit actually proves.
Dior, Chanel, Gucci, Balenciaga, Celine, Maison Margiela, Fendi, Bottega Veneta. Fifteen debuts in the Spring/Summer 2026 season alone. A map of the largest creative reset in modern luxury, and why it happened all at once.
CoutureParis haute couture ran July 6 to 9 with Pierpaolo Piccioli's Balenciaga debut and Duran Lantink's at Jean Paul Gaultier, alongside second outings from Blazy and Anderson. The clothes were sculptural. The subject was handover.
His first Balenciaga couture, shown in the July week, answered the question everyone had about the appointment: he was not going to imitate what the house had been for the previous decade.
BusinessFirst-half sales of €38.6 billion, a 3% second quarter, and a fashion and leather goods business still down 5% across the half. Kering posted its first positive quarter in three years. The recovery is real and it is thin.
Europe slowing while the US and Asia lift. Two to five percent growth received as good news. A rebound that keeps getting a reality check, and a sector that has quietly redefined what normal looks like.
Standards, regulation, materials, and which requirements have real teeth.
All of Sustainability
SustainabilityThe Digital Product Passport was written into the Ecodesign regulation in June 2024. The delegated act for textiles is indicated for 2027 and cannot bite for eighteen months after that, which puts real compliance in 2028 and makes the specification published this May the thing to read now.
Parliament passed the ultra-fast-fashion bill on June 29 after more than two years between the two chambers. Per-item penalties start at €0.25 and are set to climb toward €10 by 2030, alongside an advertising ban that reaches influencers.
ResaleAI-driven verification and blockchain provenance are where the money is going in secondhand luxury, because in a market of unique used objects the only defensible asset is being believed.
From $37.95 billion in 2025 to $41.61 billion in 2026, on the way to a projected $60 billion by 2030. Handbags are 40% of it, and 62% of buyers give sustainability as their reason.
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